среда, 10 августа 2011 г.

CLASSIC JEANS


Classic five pocket cool, with an always-in-style timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. It’s no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist – measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.
Seat – measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8″[20 cm] below the waist.
Body Rise - measure drop from waistline to crotch level.
Outseam – measure distance from waistline to floor.
Bottom width – desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).

PATTERN

Jean Template: Front
Square both ways from 0.
0-1 = body rise minus width of waistband: square across.
0-2 = waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.
0-3 = outseam measurement; square across.
1-4 = half the distance of 1-3 minus 2″[5cm]; square across.
1-5 = 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8″[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.
6-8 = ¼ of seat measurement.
5-9 = 1/16 of seat measurement.
7-10 = 5/8″[1.5cm].
Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 ¼”- 1 ½” [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.
10-11 = ¼ waist + ½”[1.25cm]
3-12 = ½ of bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
4-13 = the measurement 3-12 + ¾”[2cm].
Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11 out 1/8″[0.5 cm].
3-14 = ½ bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
4-14 = the measurement 3-14 + ¾”[2cm].
Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14. Curve in 9-15 by 1/8″[0.5cm]
Jean Template: Back
5-16 = ¼ of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.
16-19 = ½ of distance 16-18.
18-20 = ¾”[2cm].
20-21 = ¾”[2cm].
21-22 = ¼ of  waist + 1″[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.
9-23 = ½ of distance 5-9 minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
23-24 = 1/8′[0.5cm].
Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 ½”- 1 ¾”[4-4.5cm] from 16.
17-25 = ¼ seat + 1/8″[0.5cm].
12-26 = 3/8″[1cm]
13-27 = 3/8″[1cm]
Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.
14-28 = 3/8″[1cm]
15-29 = 3/8″[1cm]
Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29 in 3/8″[1cm].
21-30 = ½ of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2′”[1.25cm] wide.
To Complete Jean Front
Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point 6.
Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.
Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8″[3.5cm] from 31-32.
Draw in fly piece shape to point 333/8″[1cm] below 6.
Fly piece width = 1 ½ – 1 ¾”[3.7-4.5cm] wide.
Trace off fly piece.
Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.
To Complete Jean Back
Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.
Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 ½”[4cm] wide at 17.
(Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).
17-34 = 1/8″[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom 21-24.
Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).
21-35 = ¼ of distance 21-16.
22-36 = ¼ of distance 22-25.
Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.
Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.
Patch Pocket – trace off back pocket.
Waistband
The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 ¼”[3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).
37-38 = 2 x waistband width; square across.
38-39 = waist measurement + 1 ¼”[3cm]; square up.
39-40 = fly width; square up.
39-41 = ½ of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.

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